The Story of Roberto Coin: Handcrafted Italian Fine Jewelry

Centuries-old Italian craftsmanship meets modern design — signed with a hidden ruby.

Heritage

The company that bears jewelry designer Roberto Coin’s name was founded in 1977 in Vicenza, Italy — a romantic hub where roughly 20% of Italy’s jewelry is created. For years, the atelier manufactured for other Italian lines; in 1996, the Roberto Coin brand launched: a marvelous mix of centuries-old Italian craftsmanship and modern design techniques that quickly earned a global reputation for luxury.

Each Roberto Coin piece is unique and handcrafted — from delicate to bold — and all are exquisitely finished in the house’s signature style.

Roberto Coin Headshot
Roberto Coin

The Signature Ruby

In 1996, beginning with the Appassionata collection, Roberto Coin started “signing” his jewelry by setting a small ruby hidden inside each piece. This exclusive signature is a secret message — a gift, really — to the woman who wears it. As the designer shared, the ruby is a “romantic way to wish the best to all the people wearing my pieces.”

Inspired by an Egyptian legend in which pharaohs considered the ruby a magic stone that could bring health, happiness, and long life, Roberto chose the gem as his talisman. Only synthetic rubies are used to ensure no stone originates from a region in turmoil; both natural and synthetic rubies share the same physical and aesthetic characteristics.

Roberto Coin bracelet with hidden ruby
Roberto Coin bracelet with the hallmark hidden ruby.

Authenticity & Materials

Two hallmarks of authenticity are the mark of Vicenza, Italy, and the signature hidden ruby. Every Roberto Coin piece is classically designed and precision-crafted in 18kt gold, with and without gemstones.

Design Philosophy

Roberto Coin blends the fantastic with innovation — creative, exuberant, and sensitive by design. Nature is a constant inspiration, especially the animal world, and the work radiates joy and impeccable craftsmanship. Italy, his birthplace, remains a defining muse: “Italians were the original architects, artists, painters; we designed the jewels for the monarchs.”

A master of light, shape, and color, Roberto works with 18kt yellow, white, and rose gold; diamonds and precious stones; gold and steel; wood; and more across necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings, brooches, and pendants. He sketches the ideas, designers develop them digitally, and model-makers bring them to life — a process he oversees end-to-end, from design to manufacturing, marketing, and finance.

Ethical Sourcing

Every polished diamond used in Roberto Coin jewelry is purchased from legitimate sources that adhere to the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) and the System of Warranties — all from conflict-free areas.

Global Reach

More than 600 models across the most sought-after collections are produced each year, serving clients in Europe, Asia, North America, and South America across 800+ points of sale in 53 countries.

Collection History

Animale

Whimsical, nature-inspired creatures in 18kt gold with vibrant gemstones and diamonds.

Appassionata

Interlocking ribbed links in a flexible basket-weave — iconic movement and texture.

Art Nouveau

Floral motifs honoring European innovation and artistry.

Barocco / New Barocco

Twisted threads of gold forming open, architectural lacework.

Black Jade

Concave gold forms with African black jade; bold green agate in rose gold.

Bold Gold (“Love Chain”)

Seamless links in satin and high-polish finishes.

Bollicine

Effervescent “bubbles” in yellow/white gold, with or without diamonds, plus enamel.

CapriPlus

Mediterranean color stories in gemstones and metals; mini & petite versions.

Cento

Patented 100-facet diamonds for kaleidoscopic brilliance; certified and laser-inscribed.

Chic & Shine

High-polish flat links for modern, everyday radiance.

Class & Color Cento

Cento-cut diamonds with elevated color play and light return.

Classica

Refined, weightless silhouettes adorned with diamonds.

Cocktail

Statement-making jewels with undeniable presence.

Diamond Collection

Elegant and luxurious — perfect alone or stacked.

Diamonds by the Inch

Delicate chains with bezel-set diamonds — feminine and youthful.

Dubai

Intricate, shimmering marquise-shaped openwork in woven gold threads.

Elefanto

Textured designs evoking the beauty of elephant hide.

Fantasia

White & champagne diamonds with colored sapphires for dazzling light.

Florentine

Artisan gold with flawless attention to detail.

Haute Couture

One-of-a-kind jewels in rose/white gold with select gemstones.

Hoop Earrings

Round or oblong icons that complement every wardrobe.

Ikebana

Japanese-inspired minimalism; pavé diamonds with onyx, coral, turquoise.

Ipanema

Vivid semi-precious stones in 18kt yellow gold — quartz, citrine, amethyst, topaz.

LeBois

Wood translated into gold — unexpected and novel.

Love Plus

“I Love You” engraved in multiple languages — a celebration of love.

Martellato

Sleek, hammered gold that plays with light and shadow.

Mauresque

Moorish-inspired romance in 18kt rose/yellow gold, with or without diamonds.

Nemo

Mythic divinities and marine motifs with movable links.

Octopus

Delicate cephalopod motifs with diamonds and black sapphires.

Pallini

Innovative 18kt gold beads in ultra-chic strands.

Pois Moi

Linear, ultra-modern design with vintage spirit — a nod to 1950s TV forms.

Primavera

Lightweight, flexible silhouettes — perfect alone or stacked.

Quadrifoglio

Platinum Guild collaboration with diamonds & tsavorite.

Scorpion

Peach, yellow, white gold with black/brown diamonds — the “guardian of the night.”

Shanghai

Peridot, iolite, topaz, and diamonds in sculptural gold.

The Perfect Diamond Hoops

Inside-out round brilliants with perfect symmetry and timeless sparkle.

The Perfect Hoops

Classic circles that shine from every angle.

Tiny Treasures

Effortless 18kt gold & diamond pendants — small scale, big impact.

Vulcano

Organic, rounded forms with flowing gems like molten lava.

Notable Wearers

Worn by icons across film, fashion, and public life — including Isabelle Adjani, Christy Turlington Burns, Hillary Clinton, Melissa Etheridge, Jenna Fischer, Jodie Foster, Jennie Garth, Salma Hayek, Jennifer Hudson, Ashley Judd, Alicia Keys, the King of Morocco, Diane Lane, Jennifer Lawrence, Jennifer Love Hewitt, Demi Moore, Emmy Rossum, Brooke Shields, the Sheikh of Dubai, Sofía Vergara, and Oprah Winfrey (recipient of a Roberto Coin–designed Sherry Lansing Award, 2013).

Roberto Coin Tiny Treasures
Vicenza, Italy — a cradle of Italian jewelry artistry.

About Roberto Coin

A daring innovator and creative force, Roberto Coin transformed a childhood dream into a storied career. After early success in hospitality — becoming one of Europe’s youngest hoteliers — he sold his hotel and entered jewelry at age 32. His journey is a testament to passion, perseverance, and entrepreneurial spirit.

Associations & Leadership

Roberto Coin is a participating member of the American Gem Society, Jewelers of America, Jewelers Board of Trade, Jewelers Vigilance Committee, MJSA, the New York Chamber of Commerce, and the Council for Responsible Jewelers. He also serves on the board of the World Diamond Council and actively supports philanthropic initiatives worldwide.

Milestones

2014 — Guest of honor at International Diamond Week (Israel Diamond Exchange).
2013 — Palladio International Award (Best Brand in CSR); Official Jewelry Sponsor of the American Gold Cup; Centurion Design Award (black/white diamond & green garnet cobra bracelet); Jessica Kahawaty becomes Middle East Brand Ambassador.
2011 — Signature bracelets supporting pancreatic cancer with The Lustgarten Foundation; collaboration with The Steve Nash Foundation; Platinum Design Award (Trends) at Baselworld.
2010 — Donates Silvano Vecchiato’s gemstone artwork “Madonna with Child & Landscape” to benefit the Orphans of Haiti.
2009 — Launches The Fifth Season by Roberto Coin (silver collection); receives Lifetime Achievement Award at the Middle East China Diamond & Jewelry Summit in Dubai.